19.3.11

Egypt: waiting for change.

The following is the original text of an article I wrote published in The Bridgton News this past week.
It is a reflection upon the past month, commencing with the announcement of Mubarak's resignation.
 

Realization dawned slowly as I stared from across the room at the large brown eyes of my Egyptian friend growing steadily wider. The gravely voice coming from the old television next to me spoke deliberately, with a measure befitting an aging politician. My urgent pleas for translation were answered first by a roar of screams and shouts erupting from the people as they streamed out of their houses and shops and into the street: Mubarak had stepped down!

We had only turned the television on to laugh at the comedy of the state TV channel, joking that they had run out of propaganda, exhausted their story-telling abilities as a commercial touted Egypt as the ideal tourist destination for minutes on end. Suddenly the ad broke away to the now familiar face of Omar Suleiman…

Leaping into the arms of my two revolutionary sidekicks, bonded now for life over what we experienced together during those 18 days, a grin spread over my face that would stay plastered there until sleep brought the muscles of my face some relief. We couldn't put our jackets on fast enough, running down the stairs two no three steps at a time, we burst out onto the street joining the jubilant crowds. There was no discussion, at this point it was innate, restraining ourselves from breaking into a run we made our way to Tahrir. Every ounce of apprehension and debate had vanished, it was clear that not a single person was sorry to see him go. My friends hugged and kissed those we met in the street, arms raised in victory, voices raised in celebration.

The now familiar checkpoints at the square's entrance were in force, though the woman patting me down was shaking with excitement. I couldn't help but embrace her in my sheer joy at witnessing this moment, in my relief and pride that this moment had arrived, achieved honorably and independently by the people of Egypt. The famous festival atmosphere of Tahrir was no longer ironic.  The people were already packed in like sardines, chains of friends pressed one behind the other snaked their way through the human sea. To the steady beating of drums circles of young men arms wrapped around each other's shoulders, danced around the musicians, accelerating until they could no longer hold on, breaking into joyous leaps and shouts.

After a while we extracted ourselves and in a side street near Talat Harb Square, merely two blocks away, we stumbled into the midst of a dance party. The Tagammu party headquarters was blasting Egyptian music from their balcony to an overflowing street below, no doubt in a bid to stave off criticism for their inaction during the revolution. There we were, singing along in unison to the kind of songs that everyone knows the words to, dancing in the street by the sparkling light of fireworks and the sudden flames of lit aerosol (a typical form of celebratory flash here). In a country normally overcome by propriety regarding public physical displays, here the static bodies of men and women alike could not contain their joy and so movement flowed to the beat of familiar rhythms, painting new memories of these streets over the recently emblazoned images of destruction and despair.

Finally sitting at a cafe which had expanded to occupy half of the street, we reveled in the victory: no small feat, yet worth more as a symbol of what can be achieved than as a proportion of the work needed to build a democratic Egypt. And beyond democracy there are other real social changes being called for, changes vital to ensure the rights which have been so nobly defended over these days, for even this momentous evening did not pass without indignities. The oppression of the regime was replaced this night with the knowledge that the war was not won; Mubarak was only the first battle.

More than a month later the sentiment holds true. The Egyptian people craved a return to normal life. What is normal life? Work can be considered this, after all making a living is just that. In this sense much is the same, people tend their shops, go to their offices, the shoe-shiners are present on every corner crouching between street vendors. Flag sales have skyrocketed, the new hot item, along with head bands in red, white and black, 25 January I.D. badges fashioned after the notorious Tahrir Youth's, and 25 January t-shirts, license plates, and on and on. The people own this revolution through and through, not only its roots, its perseverance, and its achievements, but its images and words, which captured so powerfully the imagination of the world. Yet where do these impressions lead us now? Normal life is a fiction, something soft to hold onto in the middle of a dark, cold night. Everything has changed. Egyptians are empowered now, Egyptians are citizens now. How to exercise these newly claimed rights? What to do with new found freedoms? And how to decide all of this while protecting one's livelihood and family in the face of thuggery and a crumbled security apparatus?

I said shortly after Mubarak left that it seemed everything was waiting: waiting for the army to move, waiting for the protesters to move, waiting for the new Egypt to take shape, waiting for Gaddafi to leave Libya. There are dangers in waiting; the danger that nothing happens and the danger that whomever does move can affect the changes they want in no time. The problem is that time passes quickly while a whole country is glued to the television listening to the rambles of an outmoded dictator and worrying about hundreds of thousands of people fleeing across its borders.

Tahrir emptied (forcibly I must note) after yielding the ouster of another round of ministers and a vote scheduled for Saturday on constitutional amendments, it could seem from afar like Egyptian democracy is riding on a swift current, however emerging from the raging rapids of tear gas and Molotovs, banners and beatings, I would liken the moment now, more to, say, drifting around the murky bends of the Old Saco, than floating freely on the wide thoroughfare of the Nile.

15.2.11

Egypt: Seeds of change - People & Power - Al Jazeera English

Egypt: Seeds of change - People & Power - Al Jazeera English

Live interview.

My live interview this morning with local news channel in Maine about being in Egypt during these revolutionary times. 

http://www.myfoxmaine.com/good-day-maine/Melinda-Holmes-Live-from-Egypt-116221599.html


I know I have been missing in action since Mubarak stepped down. Let's just say that the celebration, internal processing, and attempt at figuring out how to go back to a non-revolutionary life have kept my mind too busy to be able to write. But I will soon I promise.

11.2.11

Refugee Emergency Relief Efforts. Donations appreciated!

Refugees in Cairo have become increasingly vulnerable because of the recent unrest in Cairo, many if not most of the NGOs or agencies usually serving them are closed or working on a limited-staff basis.
Staff from St. Andrew's and other organisations have been in contact with Tadamon organisation which is currently running food distribution around the city for the most extreme and vulnerable cases. Everything is welcome, rice, pasta, vegetables, canned food, fruits, milk, clothes, blankets, everything. If you're not in Cairo but still have stuff here to handover, contact us and we will arrange.
Depending on the security situation we plan to be at St. Andrew's Sunday from 10am to 1pm if you want come and drop some stuff, or if you prefer we can come to your place during the afternoon. Anyhow, even if it's 1 kg of rice, contact Maelle by email (maelle.pelletier@gmail.com) or by phone 0166077047. Thanks!
Toward the same end we will accept financial contributions. These will go toward emergency food provisions and to help prevent evictions by providing temporary rent assistance to especially at risk refugees. We have several channels through which we can receive donations, depending on location.
Contributions from the U.S. and Europe are welcome and will be received via transfer to local bank accounts in those countries. If you are interested in helping in any way please contact me (meli.holmes@gmail.com) for more details.

Another Loop.

The muffled cries of demonstrators, freedom fighters, martyrs-to-be? waft electric in the breeze to my room perched three blocks from the epicenter of this revolution. The emotional roller coaster of the last two weeks has just taken another loop at full speed, inspiring some to tears, shaking shoes into the air, and causing all Egyptians to grip even tighter to their dream.

In Tahrir this evening the festival was taken up another notch with the giddy expectation of victory smiles were wide, singing was full voice, and the people were infused with an energy like that which emerges in the last lap of a race. The mood was celebratory on the streets adjoining the square. Mubarak's resignation is seen as a forgone conclusion here and it seemed for these hours that this goal was about to be realized. In the hour before the speech Tahrir waited. Sporadic chants, drums, and dancing echoed throughout this the largest waiting room on earth, punctuated by rumor induced hushes. Along pathways delineated by chains of men we forged our way through the crowd to cross the square, arriving in front of a loudspeaker just as Mubarak's first remarks rang out. A nervous quiet settled over the people, gazing in the direction of the sound. I never imagined it was possible for so many people to be so quiet.

It seems that he didn't even write a new speech but simply added a few flourishes and condescensions to the first one. The gall he has to claim a share of the people's pain, the martyrs' sacrifice. As the realization dawned that he would stick like molasses in his chair, few burst out only to be hushed, and one by one the shoes rose over the heads of the crowd, soles pointed at the origin of his voice, a gesture that is one of the greatest insults Egyptian culture has to offer. With disbelief and anger, exhaustion and determination, the protesters went back to business as usual with cries of 'Irhal' rising into the night. The elation of the evening was premature, this is a long distance race, one that many more may not finish.

What could the goal of addressing the people so be? On the eve of what was already expected to be the biggest day of protests yet, Mubarak has turned to the country and like a child stuck his tongue out, wiggling his fingers, and said 'na, na, na na, na, you can't get me'. He has lost any chance of retreating gracefully. This past Tuesday, two weeks into the revolution, 15 million people were in the streets demonstrating. This is twelve percent of the population of Egypt... 12%... again that is 12 out of every one hundred people in the whole country out in the streets actively demanding a free Egypt and the end of the Mubarak regime! It is not numbers he is waiting for so what? The demonstrators have already alluded to marching on the presidential palace and if they do this tomorrow he may squeeze more blood out of the people.


I walked home tonight from the cafe carried in the wake of a of group of protesters heading for Tahrir. The people were chanting 'bukra, bukra'... tomorrow, tomorrow in Arabic.

9.2.11

Is there a greater beauty?

Another day expressing the beauty of humanity in the center of Cairo, the center of Egypt, the center of the world. I was in Tahrir square for only a moment today, between meetings with colleagues to organize moving forward with our work with refugees, but it was enough to repair the doubts I never had about the soundness and sincerity of this revolution. Walking to the office this morning, the peace, joy and pride was thick in the air and spread across the faces of the people in the street. There was a line to enter Tahrir square in the early afternoon, Egyptians were queuing patiently on the sidewalk for over a block... Egyptians don't wait in line. While entrepreneurial youth have set up shop inside the mini-city that Tahrir has become, there is still the generous spirit present that have pervaded these demonstrations from the beginning. There is no struggle for resources here. I am struck again with how lucky I am. To have ever come to Egypt in the first place, purely by chance while I was wandering during my first sojourn abroad post-University, to have fallen in love with the country and its people, to have maintained friendships here that kept my relationship with Egypt alive, and to have decided only three months ago to come here, now. I would not want to be anywhere else on our planet during these times. Long live Egypt!

Revolution - Mohamed Mounir - Ezzai 2011 .. محمد منير - إزاي؟

8.2.11

Even tear gas cannot blind us.

In the absence of helicopters, gunfire, and breaking glass my mind is starting to flashback to the first days, when the internet was blocked and I could not share what I was seeing happen around me. So before I force myself to sleep, in the strangely quiet Cairo night, I leave you with one more thought... 
All the people were with this movement before the government's propaganda machine caught up. I know this because even with eyes blinded by tear gas I could see the bottled water being dropped from apartment windows to the protesters fighting for their right to demonstrate for a free Egypt on the streets below.

The most beautiful apple I have ever seen.

On one day early on in Tahrir I was frustrated with my inability to DO anything to help... I am not Egyptian so I resist yelling the chants because it's not my place. I saw some young people had organized to begin collecting trash and so I got a trash bag from them and joined. My friends and I moved through the crowd looking for trash on the ground. The response was overwhelming, people were looking for something to throw away, they were moved to see this white blond girl collecting their trash. Their smiles could have broken their faces. There was one man who wanted to take over for me, "This is our job they said, it is our country we should clean it up", but I insisted and they relented seeing my true desire to DO something.

A man came up to me, falling over himself to give me an apple, he dropped it and embarrassed he picked it up rubbing the dirt off of it with his shirt sleeves... it was the most perfect red delicious, the most beautiful apple I have ever seen, an apple of love between human beings, an apple representing the mutual respect that can exist if we can only stop our fear. I accepted it, reassuring him, "mish mushkela", no problem, "Shukran", and putting my hand over my heart in profound gratitude for this precious moment.

7.2.11

A return to normal?... I don't think so.

Movement on the streets is becoming easy again and shops are mostly reopened, the attitude of most towards us foreigners who remain is curiosity and welcome. Yet there have been mounting reports of suspicion, detention, and abuse of foreigners, including non-journalists. The situation inside Tahrir is safe unless you are actively aiding the protesters (food, blankets) and are spotted by the plethora of intelligence operatives there. However, I am still uneasy about approaching Tahrir from my neighborhood as there are informants for various groups among the neighbors and this has resulted in problems for other foreigners and Egyptians alike. Armed plain clothes police with uniformed police have been visiting foreigners in their homes (Euro-American) to ask why they are still here and even examine their computers.

I went to the square today after staying away for two days for my own protection and that of those around me. Again I reiterate, it is not about the safety of being there in the demonstrations but of being associated with them when one is on the outside. Returning to the demonstration was like putting salve on a wound. The square resembles a mini-city. They have organized everything, in the organic way that Egyptians do best. The festive atmosphere has been added to by Mad Hatter hats in red, white and black, popcorn vendors, elaborate displays of protest signs, and shrines to those who have been so unfortunately lost.

We seem now to be in limbo, waiting to see in which direction the state apparatus moves regarding security measures. One worry is that they are using this time while ninety percent are out of the country to crackdown on those who "suspiciously" remain here, to keep us afraid and inside our homes or get us to leave. The curfew which has become effectively moot for Egyptians is still being randomly enforced for foreigners and used as a reason for detention. With intelligence and informants for various parties infiltrating every building and present on every street it is hard to know from what angle the next threat may come. While many seem to think that we are steadily sliding back towards normalcy here in Cairo, I feel that life is anything but normal and will continue to reveal many surprises as the situation develops. Keeping my head about me, monitoring and trying to be prepared for whatever turn things may take.

Rachel Maddow- The whole world is watching Egypt

This is a must watch. She is a little intense but it is the most direct analysis and clear assessment of the government's actions over the past days that I have heard in the Western media.

Rachel Maddow- The whole world is watching Egypt

Breaking Silence in Egypt: A West African Perspective

The following article was written by my neighbor in Cairo. Please feel free to forward it to anyone you feel would be interested. He is documenting and writing about the situation facing the refugee community now and the work that we, the few foreigners from the NGO community continuing to function here in Egypt, are doing. 


Breaking Silence in Egypt: A West African Perspective

By Mouctar Diallo.
Written on Thursday February 3rd 2011, at 05:15 am.

It is four in the morning. I reside about two blocks from Tahrir square. I cannot sleep with the sporadic gunshots ringing around me. I have Al Jazeera on and surfing the Internet to have some sense of freedom. I have a lot of activist and blogger friends experiencing a siege as I write. People I have  known for the last four years. All of them, part of the amazing organic community who is putting pressure on the Egyptian government.

The fall of the Berlin Wall is a great comparison in terms of the potential magnitude of the ramifications of the current events on the region. The difference: the reunification of Europe was simple, predictable in terms of the direction the old continent took.

In the Middle East, things are extremely more complex.

The future seems obscure. Egypt, the center of Arab and Islamic culture a few decades ago, with its population representing a quarter of the Arab demography, is going to set the tone for the region. At the moment that leading role is pointing at more chaos, more radicalization and more violence to come.

Here, there is no leading figure capable of effectively maintaining the socio-political fabric. Political fragmentation is occurring at an incredible speed. This is especially true with the government strategy to create a "pro-Mubarak" movement to give the police forces the capacity to continue their repressive work with the assistance of thugs recruited in the slums around Cairo, a city of 18 million people. Consequently, gangs and vigilantes are controlling the streets; some to practice all kind of pillage, others to protect their properties. Thus far, they are using knifes, wood, steel, chains and many other types of medieval weapons.

What will happen when the use of the barrels of firearms expands beyond the security forces and the army as Al Jazeera is currently showing? There are too many unknowns for now and probably still after the uprising becomes successful. For, undoubtedly, it will be successful.

The Black Africans, in this disorder of things, are the silenced community. Of the four years I have spent in Egypt, racism has been a constant companion, at all levels of the Egyptian social structure. This constancy of racial prejudice during times of peace cannot be imaginable during the current period of violence and suspicion. This is not to say that the racist behavior has to be generalized to all Egyptians, but the facts are the facts. See for yourself.

There is a considerable sub-Saharan African community in Cairo: refugees, students, migrant workers, international bureaucrats and government or political officials and their families. I spent about half of yesterday at the airport. I saw those with the financial means attempting to leave the country.

 But there are other members of this robust community. Cairo is home to a significant refugee community from various countries. The bulk of them are from sub-Saharan Africa mainly Sudan, Ethiopia and Eritrea. Their whereabouts and welfare should be of public concern in these difficult moments. Their injuries and deaths (if any) should not be devaluated when considering the growing number of victims of the Egyptian State’s repression. Racism is as virulent in the Middle East as in the U.S. in the 1960s.

I was told, by a friend working at AMIRA, an organization involved in the relocation process of the refugees, that some Sudanese and Eritreans have been arrested and chased from their apartments. She also mentioned how it has been more difficult for them to feed themselves since the protests started. With some friends, she was working on getting some groceries to some Somali refugees.  Prior to his departure for Turkey, another acquaintance and employee of the American University in Cairo, shared with me how he had to financially assist the Sudanese refugees he had befriended. Unable to work, deprived of any assistance in this time of chaos, their survival capacities have been substantively undermined. Abdul Kader, one of the leaders of the Somali refugee community in Cairo told me that their vulnerable financial situation has now been aggravated by pressures put on them by landlords, who themselves are strapped in an economy that has come to a halt. Even still, the landlords are pressuring the refugees to vacate their living quarters.

It does not stop there. Two Somali refugee women have been sexually abused in their home at El Ashra two days ago in the heat of the uprising. The Somali community leader, Ali Dahiradin, received the report this afternoon. The women have been beaten and sexually abused by a gang of young and armed Egyptians. Dahiradin was vexed, relaying to me that the women are complaining that there is no justice and that they cannot go to the police.

Even as I have ventured out, dedicated to my passion of documenting society, to capture these ongoing events, I have to deal with some remarks from some of the protesters. At the moment, it will not be fair and ethical for me to further comment on the faith of the sub-Saharan Africans, not knowing all the details. So far, I know that many are exiting the country and I am now thinking about it myself.

As everyone, I hope things will get better. But the reality is actually worse than what is shown on TV. Once again, the Media is exposing its weaknesses to manipulations through different political agendas defending different political and economic interests. Many have been hurt; many are unaccounted for; people are being killed. My utmost consideration and respect to the Egyptian people braving the state and its rigid structures of oppression and exploitation.
Egypt and the region will never be the same. The multitude are already on the move in Algeria, Jordan, Sudan and Yemen, whatever their specific differences.

It is now five fifteen. The call to prayer is being interrupted by the gunshots killing the children of Egypt in a place supposedly incarnating freedom, Tahrir Square. Their spilled blood will certainly give it back its symbolic grandeur as a space dedicated to liberty. As I am about to put my forehead to the ground, let us all pray to the all Mighty for the souls of those that fell today to the bullets of the wicked.



--
Mouctar Diallo
MA Candidate
Department of Political Science
Department of Sociology and Anthropology
The American University in Cairo
mouctar@aucegypt.edu

6.2.11

Mubarak Thugs Target Cairo Scholars Listserv

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE 

Contact: Samer Ali

Date: February 5, 2011
Telephone: 512-731-9700


Mubarak Thugs Target Cairo Scholars Listserv

If you are an American student or scholar working in Egypt, you likely heard about Cairo Scholars by word of mouth or google search before your arrival . It’s often dubbed the “Craigslist of Cairo” and upon landing you might have consulted this listserv to find an apartment, roommate, daycare, or Arabic lessons in your adoptive city.

On Wednesday, February 2, pro-Mubarak thugs came out to the streets of Cairo, but also took to the internet to intimidate foreign students and scholars on Cairo Scholars accusing them of being “f’n traitors” and “agents of the Americans” who “want to set the whole country on fire.” One pro-Mubarak loyalist threatened: “u have been reported.”

Since Wednesday, Cairo Scholars members have reported dozens of incidents of foreigners being arrested or detained for questioning by pro-Mubarak police and state security. This harassment is state-sponsored and constitutes a direct assault on cultural diplomacy and academic exchange with the people of Egypt. This pattern of intimidation includes that of journalists, whose prime offense is connecting Egypt to the outside world.
  
Unlike Craigslist though, Cairo Scholars’ express purpose is to support specifically students and scholars abroad doing the work of cultural exchange and person-to-person diplomacy. For that reasons, the list has a closed membership in order to promote a sense of community and relative trust among students and scholars abroad, who need to depend on each other for daily needs.

These threats come at a time of crisis, when information flow is essential for students and scholars abroad to make informed decisions about where to get food and provisions, how to cope and whether to stay in Egypt or uproot themselves.

For more information about Cairo Scholars
and the state of its members, please contact Prof. Samer Ali, Middle Eastern Studies, University of Texas at Austin, email: <saali@mail.utexas.edu>.

5.2.11

Crackdown?

There is considerable risk that if Mubarak stays in power or even in the country there could be a covert crackdown on those involved in the demonstrations. The process of building the new government could then be co-opted with political life in Egypt returning to business as usual: intimidation, oppression, and corruption. The turn of events including the violence of the last few days was orchestrated. The spin from state media and the politicians' statements make it apparent that the government is still up to its old tricks. It is clear that the regime has not changed its behavior in the least and is simply playing a political game to get out of this situation and indeed to turn it in its favor. Trusting dictators is foolhardy... you know what they say fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

The following list is of some of the pieces which do not add up.
  1. Journalists attacked/arrested damaging cameras
  2. Ramses Hilton looted/raided targeting cameras
  3. Restriction on leaving house at any time with out ID
  4. Covert collaboration between thugs and army (it's curious that whenever violence breaks out between thugs and protesters the army is no where to be found, while on other nights they have taken over the checkpoints from the neighborhood watch and there is a base right around the corner)
  5. Intimidation of neighborhood watch groups (passive reaction to thugs, allowing passage to and from fighting protesters)
  6. Intimidation of foreigners to keep us in homes even outside of curfew.
  7. Intermittent problems with mobile connections and website access, including inability to upload media to youtube/BBC and disruption of specific numbers and international calls
  8. Infiltration of demonstrations by pro-Mubarak people taking photos
  9. State media portrayal of the demonstrations as foreign instigated and supported and accrediting it to the Muslim Brotherhood thereby discrediting the popular movement and claiming that demonstrators are divided.
  10. Military police arresting sub-Saharan Africans in home and girls food shopping, not accepting UNHCR blue cards as ID.
  11. Attack on pipeline by "a big terrorist operation", according to state media, is too convenient (opportunity created to show that country is insecure and at risk because of the demonstrations).

Spiraling situation for refugees.

We just received a call from the Somali community leader reporting that people were arrested inside their homes. They showed their UNHCR blue cards, the only form of identification the refugees have, but the military police not knowing anything about these cards arrested them on the spot. The situation for refugees in Cairo has the potential to spiral out of control very quickly. With various actors providing security and the UNHCR closed the people in these communities are stuck in the middle with no protection. My efforts to reach the media in the US have yielded little results thus far, especially when compared to the engagement of the German and European press. Please if you have personal contacts or suggestions of organizations I can reach out to send them to me or give them my information. Thank you.

4.2.11

Revolution KFC

Returned about an hour ago from Tahrir square. We were a mixed group of Egyptians and foreigners, while we were told by an army officer near our house that we could not go in, when we tried from the next street we were ushered in with little problem after they were convinced that we were not journalists.
We were met by a friend with koshari to eat (a very typical Egyptian fast food) and everyone was laughing and taking pictures of us seated on the ground eating it because the Egyptian media has been saying that foreigners are instigating th...is and that KFC is feeding the demonstrators... so our "KFC" was a hit. People were all smiles to see us, admittedly a little amazed that we are still here but happy about it. The feeling there is that victory is very close. The topic of conversation now is what will happen next... what shape will the government take and which groups will have power. Mubarak leaving is just a matter of time.

One week anniversary.

Today is the one week anniversary of the "Day of Anger". Woke up this morning with out any sounds of violence, no bottle breaking or gun shots, first day in a while. The streets are empty of the roving bands of "protectors" that were present most of yesterday, the road blocks are mostly gone and groups of demonstrators are moving toward Tahrir carrying supplies. They are identifiable because we recognize some of them, they are bandaged and they show unflagging support of the anti-government protest in the square. People are smiling and laughing again, even at strangers, this is the Egypt I know. Unfortunately at the same time most of the foreign community, expats and refugees alike, are more and more urgently seeking to flee the country. The last few days have shaken those who were before steadfast. Keep in mind that this is exactly what the government was trying to achieve.

An attempt at sharing something coherent about the last week.

My name is Melinda Holmes, I am a U.S. citizen living in Cairo and I am choosing to stay here through the revolution. I came to Egypt three months ago to learn Arabic while in the application process for graduate school. I am working in an NGO that provides legal aid for refugees seeking resettlement. I had previously travelled in Egypt and I choose to come here to study because I love this country and its people. These are the same reasons I am choosing to stay, these and the feeling that I have a responsibility not only to the vulnerable communities we serve through my organization but also to my country, to be a cultural ambassador at a time when our government is failing miserably.
    I live in downtown Cairo in an area called Bab el Louk. My building is on the corner of Falaki and Mohamed Mahmoud streets, an area which saw arguably the most intense fighting between the state security forces and protesters who were trying to reach the Ministry of Interior building. Friday night I returned home with my head full of tear gas only to be trapped on my roof for more than 6 hours as police and protesters pushed back and forth up and down Mohamed Mahmoud street. Vehicles were lit on fire and tear gas and rubber bullets flew. The police had no supplies and so I watched form my roof as they tore apart one, then a second an finally the last kiosk on our street, out of desperation for food and water. I also watched as they caught demonstrators, witnessing the blatantly inhumane treatment that is the status quo for the Egyptian police. However I was also lucky to witness the most amazing feat of leadership I have ever seen, one that stays with me until now despite these dramatic days and forms the basis for my opinion of the Egyptian army and my understanding of this conflict.
    Two soldiers approached several hours into the fighting from behind the police line, they were aloof, surveying the scene with a removed, seemingly objective demeanor. Then they walked away into the night. Not more than an hour later, after renewed fighting during which the factions had concentrated their ranks, the protesters began to advance from the dim light of Tahrir square led by five soldiers. The police fired tear gas and shot in the air, some demonstrators began to throw rocks, the soldiers didn't flinch. These five men made clear for me in an instant the reason for the love they receive from the Egyptian people. They alone, with out tanks or artillery, held back the mass of demonstrators, no less than a hundred and forced the police to cease firing upon them. Together with the protesters they pushed the police into a side street reestablishing the barrier there and ordering them to go home. I went down to the street after with my friends to bring them food and water, only then realizing that they were hardly more than 18 years old yet held the respect that short of age only a highly functional institution can create.
    My experiences during the days since have corroborated this impression. In their absence the following night my building was overrun, protesters threw rocks from our roof inviting live gunfire from police and I spent my night with all the furniture piled against the door, my Iraqi flatmate screaming at me to get away from the windows. Until the army took over the protection of the Ministry of the Interior the violent swirl around my building persisted so that now heavy machine gun fire and burning cars have become somehow normal to me. I witnessed the behavior of the police for four days before they fled, it was enough to know the fear and disgust that every Egyptian holds for them. I have known the army's presence now for six days and despite its slow reaction to the attacks from pro-Mubarak supporters my belief in the Egyptian army holds strong. A soldier's presence has come to equal safety and tanks rolling through the streets are a sight for sore eyes.
    I was sitting with my comrades in a cafe in El Bursa (the pedestrian area of downtown normally bursting with people in lawn chairs smoking shisha and drinking tea) when President Mubarak spoke Tuesday night. There was a soldier there taking a break, the people falling over themselves to offer him hospitality and then leaving him in peace with his teas and sandwich. He sat passively with out concern his eyes red with fatigue. Watching the rapt faces of these people when the address began, I panned the crowd looking into eyes of every color that for once weren't looking back at me. There was cheering at his declaration not to run next year and then as the words continued and took on a familiar and farcical tone there was jeering, laughter and finally the whole place erupted in chants moving back toward Tahrir, barely waiting for the speech to be over. The elation of near success was clear. If the atmosphere was positive and festive during that day then at night it was a party. Remembering this now is hard as our hearts have fallen so far in the two days since.
    By midday yesterday the pro-Mubarak protests were swelling. Internet had returned, curfew was relaxed, the government was doing everything it could to make it seems like everything was over, so why were we so sad? Not because Mubarak could stay for another 9 months, but because weaving our way through the throngs of "pro-government protesters" suddenly showing up in the streets equipped with all the paraphernalia of protest that took the activists in Tahrir days to develop organically, it felt like the effort had lost some of its soul. The men who surrounded our car as it plodded through the crowd wore blood thirsty looks on their faces and were already beginning to go after other Egyptians. By the time our taxi found its way to our Tahrir street where we live, discharging us with the food salvaged from fleeing foreigners that we will try to distribute to the refugees, our hearts were in the soles of our feet.
    Soon reports began to stream in about the identities, affiliations, and motivations of this "pro-Mubarak" camp and we regained some hope, exhausted from the roller coaster of emotion. Due to mounting reports about attacks on reporters and arrests of foreigners we were unable to go out today. We postponed our plans to visit the Somali refugee community in Ardiwila, which with no army presence in the neighborhood is even more vulnerable than usual and facing threats of eviction, cutting off of cooking gas, and even occasionally being turned away from food shops. We don't yet know when we will be able to reach them.
     I will go now. My Egyptian friend and colleague, Osama, has just returned to our friend Amir's flat, which is serving as our revolution headquarters, from bringing tea to the solider outside. He has brought with him cold medicine for me, as I am fighting something I probably got from sharing water with a hundred thousand demonstrators in Tahrir. The soldier had taken over the checkpoint from the locals as their nerves are shot and they are beginning to harass everyone who passes mercilessly. The soldier, who likes to be called "Fayoumi" (meaning someone who comes from Fayoum), said he was tired of the people there and so he escorted my friend to a pharmacy. After two days of uncertainty and my first real apprehension about staying here in Cairo, I will sleep well tonight and dream about what tomorrow may bring.

3.2.11

There is truth to what they say about the Egyptian army being the best in the world.

Finally ventured out to try to gather things from my apartment 3 blocks away. The neighborhood watch is back and you can feel the heightened stress since the influx of Mubarak thugs who had controlled our street from last night through most of today. They are extremely suspicious of anyone they don't know and as the situation has developed the watchmen have rotated. After much deliberation, returnign to the apartment to prove we live here he asked us about our work and not understanding the concept of refugee ("political immigrant" is the direct Arabic translation) he got freaked out and we ended up being taken to the military stationed down the road. The calm with which the soldiers approached the situation is unbelievable considering the recent developments and the fact that they are mostly around the age of 20. They asked the various neighborhood men who were all clamoring to talk over one another and explain themselves and our situation to leave us. They asked us questions and after they understood who we are they gave us an escort through the street back to our flat, smoothing our process through the checkpoints, several though we are talking about only a distance of two blocks. The whole experience has reassured me that they are still operating with same standard of excellence I have witnessed through out despite their recent inaction to control the attacks by government supported pro-Mubarak protesters.

Egyptian police capture protester on my street.

The following I filmed from my roof on Friday night, 28 January, the first "Day of Anger". The footage speaks for itself as to the Egyptian police's treatment of those it arrests. The contrast with the popular committees or neighborhood watch groups it stark, when they captured a theif in the following days they surrounded him with four men, weapons pointed out to protect the prisoner, and walked him directly to the army.


27 January... eve of the Day of Anger

An uneasy calm has settled over Cairo this evening. Police presence is concentrated around the most sensitive and likely demonstration locations and abandoned the barricades across the side streets of downtown in all likelihood to rest and prepare for tomorrow's protest actions. I have developed a small band of friends and colleagues with a common disposition toward the events of these days. Our nature is to seek out the action, not merely as gawking bystanders but because we feel we need to contribute in any way we can to the cause; for us this means gathering and disseminating as much information as possible, as quickly as possible. Tonight, three days since the call for revolution was issued, we walked the streets of Cairo, searching for demonstrations and monitoring the situations that are locked down. The Syndicate of Journalists, the origin of yesterday's explosive events, has been cordoned off by riot police standing shoulder to shoulder in the street. While yesterday the authorities were allowing people to gather directly in front and join as long as they were not adding to the occupied space, today they have a strangle hold which seems to be impermeable. 
Thursday evening is the Friday night of Egypt, the end of the work week and when Egyptians typically pour out onto the streets to window shop, eat ice cream, and sit in cafes. Tonight was much like a normal night in Cairo, except the plastic lawn chairs in the outdoor cafes were sparsely filled and one could stay on the sidewalk with out having to wind between the usual crowds of families and teenagers. People went about there normal business, there were just far fewer of them. As our hope of stumbling upon a spontaneous protest waned we walked toward home up Talat Harb street, the center avenue of the downtown shopping district.  Nearing Tahrir square, the site of Tuesday's opening protest when 20,000 people supplanted  the maze of traffic to call for reform, there was a dramatic change in ambiance as we passed four police trucks full of the young foot soldiers who comprise this force. Drinking tea, smoking cigarettes, and chatting with passersby, the are an unassuming yet foreboding presence. The blocks surrounding the square resembled a shadow of themselves: every other store closed, sidewalks nearly empty of pedestrians, no street vendors save the permanent newsstands.
Arriving home eager to read the press and check for updates online I found no internet connection, checking connections, quitting, reopening, restarting, rebooting the router, only to confirm that the sneaking suspicion was a disturbing reality: the internet had been completely shut down. Not facebook or twitter now, not even Al Jazeera or other international news outlets, but all access had been blocked. Egyptians journalists have been arrested away from the scene of protests. We are consulting demonstration guides, learning how to combat tear gas and making contingency plans. The police have vanished from the streets and the night is eerily quiet. I am writing this not knowing when or how I will be able to communicate it to the outside world. Sms has also been disrupted and the strange feeling of normalcy that I had maintained to this point has vacated my being. 

26.1.11

Cairo has gone crazy

Footage from inside the walls of Saint Andrew's Refugee Services where I work in Downtown Cairo. Please spread this as far and wide as you can in the media as it is hard to get things out of the country right now.



Egypt awakens


Today I am confronted by a new Egypt. Perched in my sweet new little room over Bab el Louq market in downtown Cairo, I can hear this new Egypt flowing across the night air in through the two big French doors that open onto my balcony. If I open my shutters and stand there, six stories up in the Cairo sky, I imagine I can almost see the people gathered in Tahrir square.

When my flatmate woke me this morning he told me about the scores of police blocking off our road, in our building, questioning.  But it came as no surprise, everyone has been talking about it for days but all say that it won't amount to much, even still the government will pour the troops out onto the streets just in case, to show their presence and maintain docility.

The first indicator that today was different was when the neighbor, the mother of my flatmate's childhood best friend, came rushing to tell us to close our windows so the tear gas wouldn't get in. We were having a day of Spring cleaning in the apartment and all the windows were wide open, very uncharacteristic for a Cairo home. Soon we heard that Tahrir was full of demonstrators and when we climbed out onto the balcony we could hear their chants like a low roar.

My inner rebel was roused, dressing and brushing the dust out of my hair I set out to investigate the scene, camera, passport, and cellphone in hand. I immediately met two of my colleagues and their company emboldened me. After standing in the middle of a major street leading to the square, a street where one normally must calculate crossing traffic like a video game, and examining the approach, we decided to get closer and then entered the protest.

The police in their riot gear had the street blocked off with traffic barriers but were allowing people to pass through with no problems. Inside the atmosphere felt something like a Sunday picnic with political overtones. People not actively demonstrating were sitting in the middle of the main roads to rest and everyone had their cell phones out to reach friends and document the event, seemingly as high a priority as being there in the first place, which is reasonable since in these days a revolution gains ground more in the virtual world than in the real.

There were various groups chanting different slogans and challenges to the president. Over time they seemed to be coming slowly more cohesive and powerful as a result. The crowds surged forward and were driven back, confronting police barricades and storming towards the Parliament building. After the sunset call to prayer rang out across the square there was a lull in the shouts and jeers as hundreds of men and women lined up to pray in the street, bowing their heads to the pavement that meets not reverent human beings but a million car tires on a normal day.

As the city grew dark and the people grew weary the action took on a more determined and serious tone, they were starting to realize that something, yes something was really happening. Stars were emerging, in the heavens and on the ground. There were the young men who climbed the lamp posts to drape Egyptians flags and hold banners high and those who exhibit prowess at leading the cheers, hoisted on the shoulders of their countrymen, spinning ever cleverer slogans against the regime and corruption.

They are still there, the hope growing and filling their hearts and mine as the time passes and commitment to affecting change is born in this populace. I made my way home, having to explain myself at the entrance to my street and beg leave to enter from the head of the policemen. I have now washed the dust and dirt of Tahrir off of me, but I cannot rid myself of this hope, a spark ignited by this day, this new Egypt, these Egyptians who have found something new in themselves. I am so proud today of them, of this country, and I will fall asleep with the same thought as tens of millions of Egyptians tonight... Inshallah.